Independent watchmaking is not solely a Western specialty; some of the finest watchmakers hail from the Orient as well. This article introduces you to five noteworthy Chinese independent watchmakers, exploring their backstories and highlighting their major accomplishments.
Qian Guobiao, born in 1975 in the mold-making hub of Ninghai, Zhejiang province, demonstrated a natural affinity for mechanics from an early age. His fascination with mechanical objects led him to disassemble anything he could get his hands on, including his father's cherished Shanghai brand wristwatch. This early exposure to intricate mechanisms laid the foundation for his future career in horology.
In 1991, fresh out of middle school, Qian began his professional journey as an apprentice at a mold-making company in his hometown. There, he honed his skills and became known for his talent in watch repair, a passion he pursued with enthusiasm. He often repaired watches for his colleagues and friends, offering his services free of charge, a testament to his deep-seated love for the craft.
By 2005, Qian decided to commit himself fully to the world of watchmaking. He left his job to focus entirely on watch repairs, quickly gaining recognition in the industry. His expertise was further solidified when he began publishing articles in prominent industry magazines such as "TRENDSTIME" and "TIME" in 2009. Additionally, he shared his knowledge through technical posts on various forums, which garnered him a substantial following of enthusiasts and aspiring watchmakers.
Qian's reputation grew as many individuals sought his help with their malfunctioning timepieces. Some even traveled to Dongguan to learn directly from him, eager to absorb his vast knowledge and skills. Skipping the usual junior and intermediate levels, Qian passed the National Senior Watch Repair Technician Examination in 2015, a clear indication of his exceptional proficiency in watchmaking.
Qian's dedication to mastering complex horological mechanisms is evident in his relentless pursuit of knowledge. He immersed himself in practical research and diligently studied English-language literature on the subject, using dictionaries and translation tools to overcome language barriers. This commitment enabled him to successfully repair watches with highly intricate complications, such as starry sky displays, perpetual calendars, tourbillons, and minute repeaters.
Despite a busy schedule filled with watch repair appointments, Qian has managed to craft one or two timepieces each year since 2008. His meticulous attention to detail ensures that each watch achieves a flawless finish and a perfect luster, showcasing his patience and skill. Among his notable creations are three distinct series of timepieces that highlight his craftsmanship and innovative spirit.
The initial piece is the AB-01 Double balance wheel, a project that took over four months of dedicated work to complete in 2012. This watch exemplifies Qian's ability to create complex and precise mechanisms. Following this, he introduced the AB-02, a small second wristwatch featuring a classic black dial, further cementing his reputation for creating elegant and functional timepieces. His most recent creation, the AB-03 "Facing the Sky," draws inspiration from a bird's-eye view of the cityscape through his window, demonstrating his ability to blend artistry with technical prowess.
Tan Ze Hua, born in 1953 in Hunan Province, has significantly impacted the watchmaking world. Coming from a family with a rich horological background, he learned the intricate skills of clock repair from his father, who had been a local watch repairer since 1949. Tan's formative years were immersed in mechanical expertise, culminating in a comprehensive apprenticeship from 1966 to 1969. By his early twenties, Tan had embarked on a professional journey, dedicating fourteen years to a state-operated watch repair facility. This period was crucial for Tan, as it allowed him to accumulate the foundational knowledge that would later drive his entrepreneurial spirit. In 1980, he established his watch repair shop, marking the beginning of his independent venture in horology.
Tan's journey exemplifies resilience and adaptability. Alongside his watch repair business, he worked part-time at an industrial pump manufacturing plant, where he mastered machining techniques essential for precision machinery manufacturing. These skills were pivotal when he transitioned to watch design and manufacturing in 2005. By 2015, Tan had developed four distinct watch movements, showcasing his innovative prowess with the creation of a unique split-axis escapement, for which he sought an invention patent.
Tan Ze Hua's horological philosophy extends beyond aesthetics; he is deeply committed to the mechanical excellence of escapements and prolonged power reserves. His creations, though modest in appearance, house sophisticated movements, epitomized by his proprietary 10-day calibre and the innovative Di-Axial escapement. His dedication to horological artistry earned him candidacy and subsequent membership in the prestigious Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) in 2019, affirming his position among elite watchmakers.
In the past decade, Tan's creations have continued to surprise and impress, powered by his uniquely developed in-house movements. Notable among these is the "Rainbow" series. The inaugural piece from this series, unveiled at the 2023 Singapore Watch Fair, highlights Tan's refined aesthetic and mechanical prowess. A standout piece from this series features a dial-free design, showcasing the intricate movement beneath a crystal-clear front, demonstrating Tan's exceptional skill in bevelling.
The "Buddha" series is another significant achievement in Tan's portfolio. The "Statue of Buddha" timepiece stands as a monumental offering in this series, embodying profound respect for cultural and spiritual symbolism. This watch features the innovative ‘TZH Independent and Research 603’ movement, housed within an 18k gold case of 44mm diameter. The dial showcases a meticulously crafted 24k gold Buddha figure, floating elegantly above the watch hands, avoiding any intrusive central drillings that could disrespect the revered image. This thoughtful design is supported by groundbreaking suspension technology, for which Tan received a national patent certificate from the China National Intellectual Property Administration in May 2023.
Lin Yong Hua, born in 1973 in Shenzhen, embarked on his horological journey at the age of 18, starting his career in a quartz watch manufacturing company in 1991. Unlike many independent watchmakers who begin with mechanical watches, Lin's early experience with quartz timepieces provided him with a unique foundation. In 2009, he established his own repair and restoration workshop, all while immersing himself in the study of mechanical watch complications. It was only three years after founding his workshop that Lin ventured into independent watchmaking. His dedication and talent earned him candidature for the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) in 2012, with full membership granted in 2017.
LYH Watches is named after its founder, Lin Yong Hua, and based in his hometown, Shenzhen. Lin's innovative approach to watchmaking has garnered significant attention, particularly with his No. 4 wristwatch, which played a crucial role in his AHCI membership. Lin has crafted several distinctive timepieces, each showcasing his mastery of various watch complications. Notably, with the exception of springs, jewels, crystals, and straps, every component is meticulously designed and crafted in-house by Lin in his workshop.
Lin's commitment to in-house manufacturing is evident, with most parts of his watches, including the cases, being crafted within his workshop. His initial work, the 'Vinyl Record,' drew inspiration from classical vinyl record players. This watch, born out of a love for music, features elements reminiscent of a record player, including a tonearm, horn, and musical notes. The tonearm moves across a 0.30mm thick rotating transparent sapphire plate to read the minutes, powered by Lin's self-made manual winding mechanical movement.
To date, Lin Yong Hua has crafted ten distinct wristwatches, each exemplifying his philosophy of pushing the boundaries of watchmaking. Notable among these are the "Wirepuller" and "Asteroid" models. The "Wirepuller," first unveiled at Baselworld 2019, is powered by Lin’s self-made dual power movement, boasting an impressive 3-day power reserve. The "Asteroid" marks his debut in automatic watchmaking. Nearly entirely constructed from 18K Red Gold—including the eccentric mini rotor, the case, and the movement—only the transmission gears and diamonds are exceptions.
After introducing three veterans in the field of Chinese independent watchmaking, we now turn our attention to two young and talented independent watchmakers from the same region.
Kuan Rao
Rao Kuan, not yet 30 years old, stands out as a unique figure in Chinese independent watchmaking, largely due to his unconventional background. With a degree in Materials Science from Imperial College, London, and a subsequent degree in Product Design from the Royal College of Art, Rao's initial foray into horology was driven purely by passion. His journey began as a watch enthusiast and collector, particularly of vintage watches and pocket watches, which he discussed extensively on forums. This enthusiasm led him to become a moderator on China’s largest online watch forum. Realizing that the watches he desired were either unavailable or prohibitively expensive, Rao decided to create his own, marking the start of his self-directed study into watchmaking. He began acquiring tools in 2013 and, after several years of experimentation and refinement, officially launched his first 'Orca' model in 2021.
Rao's watchmaking knowledge is largely self-taught, derived from online resources, books, and the invaluable lessons learned from numerous failures. His first creation, the 'Orca' model, debuted in 2017. Inspired by his time moderating discussions on China’s largest online watch forum, Rao sought to transform the concept of 'Geneva waves' into a visual representation of waves. Using traditional finishing techniques, he crafted an image of an orca leaping from the sea, employing anglage and loose-abrasive frosted surfaces for the orca’s contours, and perlage patterns to mimic splashes, seamlessly integrating Geneva stripes as sea waves.
Following the 'Orca,' Rao developed the 'Wu Wei' watch, featuring his patented Equal-Push escapement, inspired by George Daniels' Co-Axial Escapement. The Equal-Push escapement aimed to introduce a joint lever to the co-axial escapement, ensuring a more evenly distributed impulse force. Demonstrating his comprehensive skills, Rao fabricates nearly all watch components from scratch, including the movement, dial, hands, and case, purchasing only the mainspring, jewels, and shock absorbers.
Embracing the Chinese proverb that one’s character is shaped by their environment, Rao utilizes an unconventional set of tools. His toolkit includes a retired lathe from a radar manufacturing facility in Hefei, a milling machine adapted from a pantograph originally used in an oxygen machine factory in Suzhou, and a CNC machine retrofitted from equipment once belonging to Foxconn in Shenzhen. These repurposed devices, while unconventional by Swiss standards, have been ingeniously modified by Rao to create timepieces that naturally possess a unique character, embodying both his innovative spirit and his resourceful approach to watchmaking.
Neo Kung, a name that emerged seemingly out of nowhere, has quickly become a standout figure in the field of independent watchmaking this year. His debut piece, a stunning work of haute horology, made waves by competing in the 2024 GPHG chronograph category. As a one-man independent watchmaker, Neo aims to preserve and promote traditional haute horology through his meticulously crafted timepieces, which blend rich heritage with personal innovation. His passion for hand craftsmanship is evident in every aspect of his work, from goldsmithing and hand-pushed engraving to enameling, all of which he finishes by hand.
His first creation, the 'Orienta,' exudes a vintage vibe reminiscent of classic Chinese watches. The movement within the Orienta, the NK-01, draws its architectural inspiration from Venus, paying homage to the historical Swiss-Chinese collaborations of over six decades ago. The design, influenced by the concept of "l’arbre de la vie," is evident in the bridges, arms, and balance wheel, celebrating life's resilience and grandeur. Each detail is meticulously hand-finished, and the silhouette of the Orienta, inspired by the Beijing Forbidden City, emphasizes symmetry. The crown and pushers align perfectly with the case's central line, while the bezel and case back mirror each other symmetrically.
The dial of the Orienta features hand-applied silvering and markers that evoke the style of the 1960s, with four squared indexes echoing the imperial palace's corner towers. A gold shadow flange adds a touch of warmth to the overall aesthetic. The hands maintain the essence of the original 1960s design, with unique tail variations and double reds enhancing readability and modernity. The case, crafted from Platinum 950, adds a sense of importance and significance to this piece.
Neo's dedication to detail extends to the bracelets of his watches. Despite polishing and designing are often seen as marks of attention to detail, but Neo takes it a step further by personally dyeing his watch straps to achieve the exact effect he desires. Although this process is time-consuming, it reflects his commitment to perfection and his love for the craft.Using a plant-based, coating-free dyeing method, he achieves a unique sunshine palette that ensures a perfect feel and look, with hand-stitched details adding to the overall craftsmanship.